As a break from ranting about copyright and Sprint (though, Sprint fans will want to know, I heard last week that The Carrier of Weeping Doom has grudgingly conceded that they can’t really keep five hundred of my bucks and not give me anything in return, and so the case is now closed) I thought I’d ask a cheerful, fun-loving question instead.
I love hotels. (Yes, I know that’s a statement, not a question, but stick with it.) As a result I get stressed when booking them in cities I don’t know, because the difference between the right hotel and the wrong one is a wide gulf indeed and I plummet into an opportunity cost vortex. There are innumerable little apps and sites out in the infospaces inviting people to catalogue and share (of course, we must always share) their favourite spots in the world, including hotels. These apps and sites are always beautifully-designed and mostly manage to avoid too obviously bellowing their true raison d’etre, which I assume boils down to “We glommed a little venture capital and hired some cool people off Dribblr and what we’re basically hoping is that we get enough traction in 18 months that Google or Facebook buy us and make us bazillionaires”. The problem is that I can’t be arsed to spend my life on these sites/apps, not least because I have no reason to trust the other people on there (in fact, if I’m honest, I have an automatic distrust of anyone who spends a lot of their time ranking things on the Internet, like a kind of grandstanding OCD). At the other end of the scale, while more popularist sites like TripAdviser can be very useful (and have saved me from making dire mistakes a couple of times), it’s tiresome to wade through all the ranting loonies venting about the fact that the staff wouldn’t change the direction of the earth’s spin to suit their specific needs, or that the weather wasn’t great AND IT’S THE HOTEL’S FAULT AND I HATE THEM ONE STAR ONE STAR ONE STAR.
So I’m going to ask you lovely people instead, as your presence here on my blog clearly declares you to be a person of immaculate taste. What are your favourite hotels? Specifically I’m looking for urban nooks, hotels which are good if you don’t already know the place like a native, and especially those which are remarkably well-situated: not merely nice to be in, but inspiring to walk out of. For example:
1. Hotel du Louvre, Paris
Situated on the Place Andres Malraux, this hotel has the clear initial advantage of living up to its name. You couldn’t be much closer to the Louvre without actually sleeping in it, which is frowned upon. There’s three good cafes very, very close by — one as part of the same building: you can get yourself upside a crème or a croque madame without having to open your sleepy eyes. There’s a cab rank (for ease of getting back to the Eurostar) a casual twenty seconds stroll away. There’s even an arty bookstore on the same block, for Pete’s sake. You’re at the start of the Rue Saint Honoré, site of many opportunities for retail incidents including the ineffably/irritatingly cool Colette (and also, until recently, one of my favourite restaurants, Le Dauphin, now sadly gone), and ten minutes’ walk will get put you in the Place de la Madeleine, home to foodie meccas Fauchon and Hédiard. Within the hotel there’s an excellent restaurant and the cosy and low-lit Bar Le Defender, which not only does great cocktails in an atmosphere of heady Chinoiserie, but is also air-conditioned — a rarity in Paris and one that saved our sanity during a weekend we stayed there when temperatures in France hit the 40s and quite a lot of people died of heat stroke. Then, yes, there’s the Louvre, and the Tuileries, plus you’re only about 10-15 minutes’ beautiful walk from St Germain and the Rue de Buci, and less than that to les Halles or the Marais… It’s not cheap, but it’s hard for me to imagine a better-placed hotel in the city — at least given my tastes and interests. The rooms are extremely nice, too, either modern or cosy depending whether you’re on a lower floor or up in the eaves, but — like all the cities on this short list, you’re missing the point if you’re spending much time in the room anyway.
2. The Muse Hotel, NYC
I’m sure I should want to stay down in Soho or in some engagingly off-beat hipster hangout in the East Village or Brooklyn or the arse-end of Queens, but the Muse in midtown suits me down to the ground — or actually, up to the 15th floor. It’s there that the best rooms in the hotel are found, because they have… balconies. Big ones. Sitting with a coffee or beer that many floors up in the heart of midtown,watching the lights of Times Square and smoking (increasingly hard to do anywhere else in the city), is quite something. The wonderfully restful Bryant Park is five minutes away, and Central Park only about fifteen). Grand Central is close by, and 5th Avenue, and if you put your striding legs on then you can be down in Union Square or Chelsea or the Village before you know it. A well-aimed brick will find you several coffee shops and even a couple of half-decent delis, not easy to come across in midtown, and Virgil’s is a very good BBQ restaurant just along the street (yes, Virgil’s is a little touristy, but you know what — you’re a tourist). After a recent regooding even the previously disappointing bar is a pleasant enough place to hang. I keep thinking I ought to check out some other hotels in the city but… I’m probably not going to. This works.
3. Galleria Park, San Francisco
This is a new entry, and I’ve only stayed there once thus far, so I can’t yet swear to its timeless quality. Initial signs are good, however. It’s close to Union and five minutes from Chinatown and the non-frightening end of Market Street. There’s a very decent coffee and sandwich store and a sushi restaurant attached, plus a La Boulange on the next block. There’s a 7-11 right close by, too, useful for picking up milk and what-have-you… I love boutique hotels with a passion that goes beyond reason, but I’m not going to pay ten bucks and have to pick up a phone every time I want a cup of tea. [Bonus hotel: though bigger, the Kimpton Group’s Hotel Monaco on 4th in Seattle has a similar vibe to this Joie de Vivre hotel, and is similarly well-located to things like stores, coffee shops and convenience stores]. The staff at the Galleria Park are some of the most serenely affable and helpful I’ve ever encountered, and the hotel scores incalculable extra points for having a kind of walking area/small park-style hangout on the roof of the building next door. Finding backstage areas in a city where you can sit and relax without having to move or interact or buy something is a great boon. If one’s actually attached to your hotel, so much the better. The Galleria’s not a big place, and the rooms and bathrooms are smallish, and there’s technically no bar (though the attached sushi place serves reasonably well, and they have wine in reception at in the late afternoon), but you’ll cope. This is a very good place to start and end your San Francisco day.
All the above are big-city urban, note. There are many other hotels of this type out there, of course — the Dream Inn in Santa Cruz, the Marquesa in Key West, and so on — but it’s when you’re in the heart of an urban environment that location really becomes key. You need a fixed point to begin, from which you can move in gradually larger and bolder concentric circles. Though the above are all reasonably pricy, it doesn’t have to be that way: I’m a big fan of the Sea Shore Motel in Santa Monica, for example, which is bracingly retro in decor and demeanour, but friendly and clean and well-placed and apparently run by people who haven’t noticed that the rest of the world has raised its prices since, say, 1978.
With an urban hotel you need a place that has both refuge and prospect, that makes you feel at home and yet holds a door open to the city, easing the transition with nearby spots and conveniences that jump-start your relationship to the city. Knowing about places like this gives you a side-door into a place that will never be your home, but where you’d like to feel at home, at least for a little while.
Those are three of mine. So. Tell me yours…

Feb 23, 2012 @ 00:41:29
As a loosely related aside, I’m staying at the Premier Inn Wembley Way on Saturday Night and am particularly looking forward to the live entertainment, known as “Fight in the Bar” (not officially scheduled, but as certain as night follows day). This should kick off around 9.15pm if anybody reading fancies popping in.
Feb 23, 2012 @ 09:25:47
Oh, that sounds excellent. Not enough hotels bother to put on this kind of old-fashioned entertainment any more.
Feb 23, 2012 @ 02:06:18
As nasty a thing to say as it is, I wish that the review sites would have a “no American reviews” filter, because it would get rid of the “food was too French, one star” type reviews.
Arguably my favourite hotel is the Venice Beach House, which sits right at the South end of Venice Beach. Old style rooms, some with private, some with shared bathrooms, but when one of the shared bathrooms is enormous and includes his-and-hers claw-foot baths, that’s no bad thing. Cafes, 7-11s, etc, around and you get the bonus of being a little out of the tourist way so during the week, past about 8pm it’s just you and the locals.
Feb 23, 2012 @ 09:27:18
That sounds very good indeed… may check it out next time I’m down there.
I wish the sites – and indeed the entire – had a “No stupid people” filter. Because – and call me elitist if you wish – good God there’s a lot of them out there, and they all know how to type now.
Feb 23, 2012 @ 03:49:35
I like hotels, I really do but the one thing no one prepares you for in relation to paying for accommodation is how much all the corridors in hotels LOOK THE SAME.
There’s not a hotel that I haven’t got lost in. I once spent fifteen minutes helplessly wandering the corridors of a three hundred year old hotel in the middle of Florence. I ended up in the deserted dining hall and asked a staff member who looked as lost as I was how to get out. They sent me in the wrong direction.
I grudgingly tolerate hotels. And they actively dislike me.
Feb 23, 2012 @ 09:28:22
I feel you. not on my own behalf, but on my wife’s, as she has a similar kind of negative sense of direction when it comes to hotel corridors. Luckily my son seems to have an eerily good sense of direction, so i can deploy him as a native tracker if I’m not going to be there…
Feb 23, 2012 @ 08:23:37
Don’t stay in a lot of hotels – I just can’t get my head around how expensive a bed and a bathroom can cost in these places. So the only noteworthy hotel I can recommend is a budget hotel where we stayed in Paris – Hotel Jeanne d’Arc, 3 rue de Jarente – not far east of your suggestion, in the Marais (4th arrondissement) – fantastic and eminently walkable area. Situated amid cobblestone streets around the corner from a lovely little square with cafes and people-watching opps all day and night, a stone’s throw from Places des Vosges, the more rough-and-ready Bastille a short walk to the east and a 5 minute stroll over the river to Notre Dame and beyond to the Latin Quarter and St Germain… Metro station a couple of blocks away for everywhere else.
The hotel itself was charming and old-fashioned, cozy, clean, quiet, friendly… unpretentious and very French. I don’t think that there can be any better value for money in such an amazing location. It costs 80-100 euros a night for a double room today, depending on how big a cat you’ve got to swing. With all the money saved you can go to an expensive hotel’s lounge and drink their bar dry ;o)
Feb 23, 2012 @ 09:29:38
That sounds very good indeed… and great value :-) I like the idea of forwardly planning to drink a bar dry, too. Sounds like you’ve got vacations pretty well sorted.
Feb 23, 2012 @ 14:07:47
I do like the play the game on Tripadvisor where I have to guess how many reviews it will be before an American complains about the size of the rooms. I have no idea what Americans do with all that space. I’ve been in US hotel rooms big enough to carry out reenactments of Civil War battles. I once got dinner for free because the hotel didn’t have a room with two enormous beds despite my patiently explaining that there was only one of me and short of a freak cloning accident during the evening, it was likely to stay that way.
I should confess, as a fully fledged drone of corporate mothership xf53c, I have spent inordinate amounts of time in the spaces you earthlings call hotels. I remember staying in a guest-house in Tolland, CT that had a bed so high that to get out of bed the following morning I had to make a parachute out of my bed sheet. I felt like a hobbit. The nice lady in breakfast told me they had burned a witch in the garden. She didn’t specify how recently. There was so much sugar in the breakfast buffet that my eyes went free range. I also spent a considerable amount of time in the early 2000s in Virginian Hampton Inn. They don’t warn you that the wallpaper and furnishing have a cumulative hallucinogenic effect. I know where the ideas for the Shining and Barton Fink originated now.
Anyway. The Muse in NYC is very nice. I’ve not stayed for a while, but the Gershwin promised quirks aplenty on a low budget. I quite like the Washington Square Hotel – I confess it’s not that great a hotel (the price to quality ratio is a bit off), but it’s perfectly situated and I like eating too much in Cosy’s diner around the corner on Broadway (they have a autographed picture of Jackie Chan that makes me inordinately happy). You can yo-yo between the East and West Village.
Hotel Helix (and Hotel Rouge just down the road) – also Kimpton – in Washington DC are very nice. Not quite as sumptuous as the Muse, but very pleasant, and you can worry Congressmen (and women) in the elevators (I once got wedged between two guys with earpieces, which was fun, in a thoroughly non-sexual way). Birch & Barley is just up Rhode Island Ave on 14th for good food and even better beer. Washington DC also now has a Nandos. (Well, you might be missing them.)
I’ve stayed in too many Marriotts and Hiltons (all of which seem to have families now, like they’ve been breeding, which is frankly unseemly, given that I’ve seen what the spawn of an Hilton looks like). Business Traveller Hotel Dislocation is a probably recognised psychiatric condition in DSM.
The Sea Shore in Santa Monica is indeed very nice (yep, it’s a lot cheaper than Shutters on the Beach). Actually, much to my wife’s chagrin I love US motels. Lumpy beds, semi-sentient wigs of ancient pubic hair in the bath holes (looks like a miniature Captain Caveman is trying to crawl out of the drains), and the scary receptionist. I once stopped at a place in Wyoming whose big claim (in twenty foot neon) was ‘we got ice.’ It was winter and there was three feet of snow on the ground. Yeah, you got ice.
This could go on forever. I like the Chateau Laurier in Ottawa (ask for a room in the tower), and the other railway hotels in Canada, which still retain some old time ambience. The Hotel Vancouver is nice too.
I think the winner in recent times (sorry doesn’t qualify as urban) was the Bavarian Inn in West Virginia. I’m always a bit scared in West Virginia anyway (moth men! serial killers! demons!) so ending up in Bavarian themed hotel one evening wasn’t encouraging. I did spend quite some time wondering if I had strayed into a Neo-Nazi militia compound. Fortunately not as far as I could tell. Odd, but quite nice in ways that Marriotts and Hiltons never are. (OK, I stayed in a Westin in Hollywood, FL were you can lie in the bath and look out at the ocean, which seems wrong but is in fact very, very right).
Feb 23, 2012 @ 21:09:08
I only wish that there was some button in WordPress that would enable me to swap things, so your comment became the real post and my post became a comment on it, as yours is much the more informative, interesting and funnier :-)
And I’m quite taken by the idea of a BavarianInn in West Virginia. As you say it’s a slightly weird place in its own right. Adding that on top sounds awesome.
Feb 26, 2012 @ 15:06:50
Just caught this….so dropping in my 2 cents….
The Fairmont, Monte Carlo. I’m not really a “Monaco kinda guy” but if you wind up there, this is the place to hang your hat. Right on the water next door to the Monte Carlo Casino (if you’re up for playing James Bond), beautiful views of the Mediterranean, the hotel restaurant is exceptional and you can sit at the bar, enjoy an excellent mixed drink and gaze at the most expensive {ahem} “escorts” in the world. They’ll probably be Russian. Nice pool on the roof too, btw. It’s only steps away from the Le cafe de Paris which is quite reasonable (and the servers are actually polite) or if you really have a yen for a rawbar – and have a few dollars to burn – the Quai des Artistes down in the yacht basin is utterly amazing. Other than that there’s not a lot to do except watch rich people, or look at expensive sports cars. Or go to the ballet.
The Academy, 21 Gower St, London. I’m not sure what it is about this place, I just like it. I think it’s the fact that its a converted set of townhouses, so it has a cozy sort of feel – more like a B&B or someones house. Plus its in a good central location, particularly for restaurants, Covent Garden, Oxford Circus, etc. The little personalized card they give you with your name followed by “In Residense” is a classy touch. Nice place to come back to after a long day of meetings or sight-seeing.
JW Marriott, Mumbai, India. Located right on the Arabian Sea (which sounds more romantic than it really is) it’s something of an oasis in the middle of…well its an oasis. The food was excellent and they have a really cool pool in the back terrace. The gift shop actually sells some things you actually would want to buy (I actually got a decent stone sculpture of Ganesha and some exotically scented oils for my wife – don’t ask). The main floor is very spacious and open. Red Carpet treatment, etc, just don’t get stuck there during a major monsoon like I did – the management got a little crazy and ran out all the juice in the generators within 24 hours. All bets were off after that!
Feb 26, 2012 @ 15:58:06
All of the above sound excellent :-) Never been to Monte Carlo, but should the wind blow me there, the Fairmont sounds perfect…